A model wears clothes designed by Txell Miras, one of 16 designers lobbying to phase out toxic chemicals in the fashion industry

16 fashion designers link up with Greenpeace to lobby EU for comprehensive ban on chemicals that harm human health

Madrid - Sixteen top fashion designers, including Carmen March, Antonio Pernas and Jocomomola [1], showed that they believe in substance as well as style at a glittering catwalk show in Madrid, today, when they unveiled one-off creations designed to avoid the use of toxic chemicals which are currently widely used in clothing. Fashion giants Mango and Camper also joined the initiative by committing to phase out dangerous chemicals from their lines.

At 'Moda sin Toóxicos', a catwalk show organised by Greenpeace, the designers joined in the lobby to phase out chemicals which can harm the immune and nervous system, affect genital development, cause reproductive disorders and cancer [2] - and called for their replacement with safer alternatives.

Meanwhile, high-street fashion giant Mango announced a long-term commitment to remove hazardous chemicals from its entire production world-wide, following talks with Greenpeace. Mallorcan family firm-turned-global brand Camper, too, is going to stop using dangerous substances in its shoes, while Inditex (owner of Zara, Massimo Dutti and other stores), supported designers in the search for toxic-free fabrics.

Helen Perivier, Greenpeace International toxics campaigner, said: "These fashion leaders work in a highly competitive industry, and are keen to put environmental and health concerns at the heart of their priorities. Innovative small businesses like theirs must currently go to extraordinary lengths to find materials that do not contain harmful chemicals; what they should be getting are guarantees that chemicals on the market are safe."

It was a well-dressed wake-up call to grey-suited types in Brussels, who later this year will vote on new rules to govern the chemical industry. This autumn, the EU will decide on the fate of the new chemicals regulation called REACH [3]. At the heart of the debate is whether the new law will give a clear signal to industry to substitute hazardous chemicals with safer alternatives or not. Currently, thousands of chemicals are used in consumer products with little or no health or safety assessments, leading to widespread contamination. An unborn baby may now be exposed to 100 man-made chemicals before it is even born.

Chemical producers have mobilised a strong opposition to REACH in Brussels, losing no opportunity to undermine its power to protect human health and the environment. In contrast, many other companies which use chemicals in their products see advantages in a REACH that could guarantee safer materials.

Commenting on the catwalk show, Mario Rodríguez, Greenpeace Spain campaigns director, said: "The beautiful clothes that we have seen today prove that it is possible to avoid toxic chemicals in clothing and still be stylish. We urge the EU to ensure that this unique event will one day be the norm; so that we can be sure that all our clothes have been made without using chemicals that can harm our health and our environment."

CONTACT
Greenpeace UK Press Office - 020 7865 8255

NOTES TO EDITORS
1. The 16 designers who participated in the show are: &Acute;gatha Ruiz de la Prada, Anke Schlöder, Antonio Pernas, Carlos Díez, Carmen March, David Delfín, Hannibal Laguna, Ion Fiz, Jocomomola, Josep Abril, Juana Martín, Juanjo Oliva, La casita de Wendy, Locking Shocking, Luxoir and Txell Míras.

2. The chemicals which the designers took steps to avoid using include the most hazardous substances commonly used in the textile sector: lead, nickel, chromium IV, aryl amines, phthalates and formaldehyde.

3. REACH - Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation of Chemicals.

Industry Comissioner Verheugen and Commission President Barroso have made agreements with the chemical industry that weaken the REACH proposals

Giant chemicals firms representing private business interests are trying to undermine and destroy EU attempts to protect the public from hazardous chemicals, reveals a Greenpeace report released today.

The study, "Toxic Lobby: How the chemicals industry is trying to kill REACH", describes how, in an attempt to cripple the proposed reform of EU chemicals law (REACH), the chemicals industry has scared and misled decision-makers by denying the problems of chemical contamination, creating fear over job losses and economic costs, obstructing innovation, and co-opting small and medium enterprises to their disadvantage. Chemicals included in the REACH legislation could be related to the worrying incidences of falling sperm counts, rising infertility and genital abnormalities in babies in industrialised countries. [1]

A day after the European Commission launched a new initiative to control excessive lobby influence in Brussels, the report documents the prominent role of the German government and German chemicals giant BASF in leading the opposition to REACH in Brussels. BASF, which spearheaded an international campaign to mobilise the US and other non-EU governments to undermine REACH, admitted in 2005 that it had 235 politicians under contract in Germany alone.

"Lack of accountability and transparency in Brussels decision-making comes at the cost of public interest legislation," said Jorgo Riss, director of Greenpeace European Unit. "The chemicals industry's corrosive campaign to destroy REACH thus far has depended on the willingness of key officials to abandon their role as public servants and behave like industry lobbyists."

The report compares the projected costs of REACH (0.2 billion euros per year) with the chemical industry's annual sales (586 billion euros, or 2,790 times as much as REACH would cost). It exposes the hypocrisy of the chemicals lobby: while the industry was arguing in Brussels that it could not afford safety regulations on cost grounds, BASF sales rose 14 per cent to 47.2 billion euros, and its net income rose 50 per cent to 3 billion euros.

Nadia Haiama, Greenpeace EU policy director on chemicals, said: "The drip-drip influence of the chemicals lobby has led to a wholesale dilution of what started out as a promising effort to improve human health. Unless this toxic influence is reversed, REACH will allow the continued use of hazardous chemicals that can cause cancer and reproductive illnesses, even where safer alternatives are available." [2]

Notes to editors:
Toxic Lobby: How the chemicals industry is trying to kill REACH, is available for download at http://www.greenpeace.org/toxiclobby.

[1] See report: Fragile - Our reproductive health and chemical exposure: a review of the evidence for links between declines in human reproductive health and our exposure to hazardous chemicals (http://www.greenpeace.org/fragile).

[2] See report: Fatal Flaws - Effect thresholds and "adequate control" of risks: the fatal flaws in the Council position on Authorisation within REACH (http://www.greenpeace.org/fatalflawsbrief).

Greenpeace installs giant test tube at EU chemical industry meeting

Outrage as UK blocks EU vote on ground-breaking law

Greenpeace today reacted with shock to the announcement that Tony Blair has blocked a scheduled vote on legislation intended to protect the public from harmful chemicals. Mr Blair has used his presidency of the European Union to postpone a vote on the REACH law, designed to protect human health and the environment from hazardous chemicals. In doing so he caved into pressure from Germany's Angela Merkel, who is seeking to protect the interests of Germany's huge chemicals industry.

"If Tony Blair fails to get this law agreed by January 1st his presidency of the EU will have achieved precisely nothing," said Greenpeace campaigner Mark Strutt. "He has a chance to see this important legislation, designed to protect the public, agreed upon under his watch. As it is hes doing the bidding of Angela Merkel and the European chemical industry and putting at risk proposals to keep dangerous chemicals out of peoples bodies. People will increasingly be asking, what is the point of Tony Blair?"

The move makes it much more likely that it will be now the Austrian presidency, starting January, that guides the legislation through Brussels. In July the presidency then passes to Finland, and then to Germany in January 2007, whose new leader is implacably opposed to REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals).

"Germany asked for a postponement and we have accepted their request," a British Government spokeswoman told Reuters. She said Britain could call another meeting of ministers to reach the agreement before the end of the year, but said no decision on a date had been made.

Further information
Contact the Greenpeace press office on 020 7865 8255

Swimming in chemicals Report, Nov 2005

Today a Greenpeace study shows how toxic man-made chemicals are contaminating the European eel population [1]. The study of European eels (Anguilla anguilla) from 20 rivers and lakes in 10 EU countries [2] found that eels from every location contained residues of at least one brominated flame retardant (BFR) compound, indicating the widespread dispersal of these chemicals in European waters. Levels of BFRs found in a sample of UK eels from the River Thames were more than double those recorded in the majority of other samples in this study.

The toxicity of BFRs (which are widely used throughout Europe in textiles, plastics and electronic goods) is of increasing concern. Growing evidence indicates that they exhibit a clear potential for adverse effects in humans and wildlife. Two BFR groups, which were significantly higher in the UK eels than in the other samples, may adversely impact neurobehavioral development in mammals (development of behaviour, memory and learning), and also interfere with thyroid hormone systems.

"People eating eels, including the traditional Cockney delicacy of jellied eels, could be adding significantly to their daily intake of these and other persistent, hazardous chemicals" said Dr David Santillo, Senior Scientist with the Greenpeace Research Laboratories. "At the same time, it is important not to forget the threats to the birds, otters and other wildlife which rely on eels as a source of food, and to the eels themselves, especially in the lead-up to spawning."

The report, Swimming in Chemicals, has been released just two weeks before the European Parliament and governments of EU member states decide whether to bow to an industry lobby that would weaken proposed EU legislation for greater protection from hazardous chemicals or vote to safeguard our lives and the environment from these dangers.

"The chemicals industry is lobbying to escape regulation even while hazardous chemicals seep into the environment," said Helen Perivier of Greenpeace International. "It is time for the European Parliament and national governments in the EU to hold industry accountable for the chemicals it releases into the environment and to protect freshwater ecosystems, wildlife and ourselves from toxic chemicals for generations to come."

The eels were also tested for levels of the banned PCB chemicals, with a sample from the Netherlands having the highest amount. "The ongoing legacy of PCBs, banned over 20 years ago, illustrates the long-term consequences of allowing the manufacture and use of chemicals which can build up in our bodies" added Dr Santillo, "and yet with chemicals like brominated flame retardants, governments are in danger of making the same mistakes all over again."

Greenpeace is urging EU governments and the European Parliament to vote for legislation requiring the chemicals industry to identify and substitute problem chemicals. The European Parliament will vote on the proposed REACH legislation (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation of Chemicals). [3]

Already under severe threat from overfishing, habitat loss and possibly climate change, numbers of young eels returning to some European waters are now thought to be as low as 1% of historic levels. Contamination with persistent toxins may also be an important factor in the decline of this intriguing species believed to migrate thousands of miles from the North Atlantic to Europe.

For further information contact:
David Santillo, Greenpeace Research Laboratories, tel 01392263917
Helen Perivier, Greenpeace International toxics campaigner, tel +32 496 127107
Katharine Mill, Greenpeace International Communications, tel +32 496 156229

Notes
[1] "Swimming in Chemicals!": Widespread presence of brominated flame retardants and PCBs in eels (Anguilla anguilla) from rivers and lakes in 10 European countries.

[2] Belgium, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Poland, Spain, and UK. The eels were donated by members of the fishing and science community or purchased in local markets.

[3] The European Parliament will vote on the REACH proposal, November 17, and the Council (EU Member States) will form a common agreement on the legislation November 29. The chemicals industry, actively supported by EU Industry Commissioner Verheugen, is lobbying for exemptions that would allow it to continue producing and marketing chemicals without providing basic health and safety data for their chemicals. Such a measure would cripple the ability of the REACH legislation to protect health and environment.

Links to earlier Greenpeace investigations of hazardous chemicals in house dust, perfumes and other consumer products, rainwater, and umbilical cord blood: http://www.greenpeace.org/toxics/cheminvestigations.

Disney pyjamas are labeled with warning stickers

Children's plastic toys sold in Europe are to be made safer following a decision by the European Parliament today to ban manufacturers from using six toxic chemicals to soften the plastic. The ban follows evidence that the chemicals, shown to damage the kidneys, liver and sex organs in animals, can be ingested by children who suck the products. (1)

Greenpeace first showed that children were being exposed to high levels of these chemicals in 1997, when it tested a wide range of popular PVC plastic toys, such as bath ducks, dolls and baby's teethers (2). A bitter battle ensued for eight years while the chemical and toy industries fought hard to prevent today's decision.

"This ban was hard won and means that plastic toys sold in Europe will be safer. However, if parents want to be sure to protect their children, we advise them not to buy anything made from PVC or vinyl because laws are still not tight enough to prevent this plastic damaging our health and environment," said Nadia Haiama-Neurohr of Greenpeace's European Unit. (3)

Greenpeace campaigns for all industries to stop using hazardous chemicals and to replace them with safer alternatives, a process called 'substitution'. Europe is the world's largest chemical producer and yet the majority of chemicals manufactured and used everyday have never been properly tested. For those that have been tested and found to be toxic, it can take years for them to be controlled; and even then their use in consumer products may still be allowed. As a result our environment and even our own bodies are contaminated.

Today's case highlights how slow the current process for regulating chemicals is and the urgent need for a much stronger, more comprehensive law. The EU is currently preparing a new chemicals law called REACH, which aims to ban or control a wide range of dangerous chemicals used in all our products. Yet the chemical industry has already succeeded in getting most of the 100,000 chemicals currently in use excluded from the rules.

"We should be able to trust industry not to make dangerous chemicals and manufacturers not to use them. But this toxic toy story shows us that they won't clean up their acts unless we force them to. We can all make a difference by shopping wisely and choosing environmentally sound products, but only by demanding tougher laws can we be sure that all hazardous chemicals are replaced with safer alternatives, said Haiama-Neurohr."

For further information contact:

Matilda Bradshaw, Greenpeace International Communications on +31 653 504701
Nadia Haiama-Neurohr, Greenpeace European Unit chemicals policy adviser, +32 2 274 1913
Katharine Mill, Greenpeace European Unit Communications on +32 496 156 229
David Santillo, Greenpeace International Science Unit, +44 1392 263917

Notes to Editors:

1. Phthalates DEHP, DBP and BBP, which are classified as toxic to reproduction, have been banned in all toys and childcare articles. DINP, DIDP and DNOP have been banned in toys and childcare articles that can be put in the mouth. The new rules will be mandatory a year after the legislation is published, probably in 2-3 months, i.e. by autumn 2006. For information about the uses and risks of phthalates, see Greenpeace report, Consuming Chemicals, (May 2003), pp 62-64.
2. For more information about the many other problems associated with PVC plastic, which arise during its manufacture, use and disposal, click here.
3. Greenpeace tested more toys in spring 2005. The study found Spiderman Flip and Mattel's Barbie "Fashion Fever" contained high levels of the harmful phthalate DINP and detected phthalates DIDP at 1% by weight in the Barbie doll. Toys contained other phthalates such as DCHP and DEHP as well as other classes of undesirable ingredients in the toys, namely organotins and nonylphenol.

A beginner's guide

Publication date: November 2003

Summary
REACH is a complicated proposal for new chemical regulation. This document is intended as background reading to explain the concept in simple terms.

Greenpeace installs giant test tube at EU chemical industry meeting

Greenpeace today reacted to newly published chemicals regulations by claiming that the European Commission had bowed to the interests of the chemical industry instead of addressing public health and environmental concerns.

Speaking about the Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals legislation (REACH), Oliver Knowles, Greenpeace Toxics Campaigner, said:

"In effect, the European Commission have put the interests of the chemical industry ahead of public health and the environment.

"Unless REACH specifically requires dangerous chemicals to be substituted with safer alternatives, then this legislation will do nothing to protect either human health or the environment.

"Members of the European Parliament and national governments must close loopholes that will allow the production of harmful chemicals to continue."

REACH currently contains a loophole that means even if a safer alternative is available, at a comparable price, production of a "chemical of very high concern" (those chemicals that can cause cancer, damage genetic material, interfere with the body's hormone system or is a reproductive toxin) can continue as long as the producer can demonstrate "adequate control". However, "adequate control" is based on an acceptable level of risk from this exposure.

Oliver Knowles said: "There is no need whatsoever to take the enormous risks associated with dangerous chemicals when a safer substitute exists. The idea of "adequate control" is a complete anomaly because there is simply no way to effectively control these hazardous substances."

For more information, contact the Greenpeace press office on 020 7865 8255.

A Greenpeace Report

Publication date: September 2003

Summary
Research published in peer-reviewed scientific journals has reported possible links between commonly used chemicals and a range of health problems.